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Testing Powders
powders101's Avatar
Posts: 1,556
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: The LAB
Testing Powders - 10-14-2011, 01:56 PM

Are your powders what you think?
well obviously the 1 bad thing about making your own gear is you get a powder in the mail thats usually white, so how do you know what it really is? what if the source sent the wrong one? or what if he was scandalous and cut it with something to profit more? how do you know?

well a few ways.

obviously the best and only failproof way is to have a lab test it for you, this way you will know what it is without doubt, and also how pure it is. this is most recomended. but obviously you cant walk into just any lab and hand them some steroid powder and expect them not to question you lol. this also be somewhat expensive sometimes.

you can also look up a physical description in chemistry books such as the Merck Index, to try and get a rough visuall description of the powder for shits and kicks. not recomended at all.

some gear is a liquid or paste at room temp. such examples of this are testosterone enanthate, boldenone undeclynate(eq), and i also believe nandrolone decanoate(deca). there may be other these just came to mind.

this is because hormones have melting points, this is the temperature where they change(usually from a powder) into a liquid. the above mentioned have a melting point in the range of common room temperature. so they melt at room temp. other hormones have much higher melting points, so they need to be heated if you wanted them to melt. (dont confuse melting with dissolving in a solvent/oil)

a crude but very usefull home test you can do for free in the privacy of you own home is a melting point test. this will give you a very good idea if you have what you think you do, however its not very accurate for testing purity levels, if its a good source they should be relatively pure though.

now everything has a specific melting point, this is determined by a few factors:

-the base drug ex. testosterone, nadrolone, boldenone, trenbolone etc...

- the ester attached to the hormone ex. propionate, acetate, enanthate, decanoate, undeclynate etc...

-the purity of the drug, if there are other things mixed in the powder this will skew the results of where it melts, they will not always melt seperately, but sometimes do, it depoends what the impurity is.

-and finally to a much lesser degree the method the manufacturer used to create the crystals. this usually has a very minimal effect but i thought i would mention it.

so what we can do is a rough test in our ovens to see where our powder melts. this is not accurate enough to make an assumption on purity levels, but it can be usefull enough to at least tell you you got the test prop you ordered, and not baking soda.

now first you find out the melting point of the hormone in question. they are usually listed in celcius, so be aware if your oven reads in farenheit.

lets say we are measuring test prop which has a melting point of 118-122c. thats about 244-251f.

preheat your oven to about 220f or so, you want it lower than the melting point.

i cant stress this part enough, YOUR OVEN THERMOMETER IS A PIECE OF SHIT AND ISNT ACCURATE! it sux but its true 99% of the time. im not kidding when i say yours could easily be off by 50degrees or more. im sure you can see why for our purposes this is not good. this is the downfall of this home test.

now what we can do to try and remedy this situation is go buy a couple oven thermometers at the local supermarket, they are usually under $5 ez. i recomend getting 2 diff types, not 2 of the same model, cause these are pieces of shit as well.

what we will try to do is use all 3 thermometers to acheive an average reading between the 3 of them, this will make the temperature reading more accurate. if you can read them acurate enough do this: therm 1 reads 215 therm 2 reads 225 therm 3 reads 220, add 215+225+220=660 divide by 3 660/3=220 so 220 is your reading.

when placing things in the oven, both the thermometers and the powder, we want to put a baking sheet int there first, then put something in between the baking sheet and the thermometer as well as the powder to insulate them. we only want the air temperature to affect our experiment, not direct(and higher) heat from the bottom flame/element. you must do this. an oven mitt works well but i set mine on fire above 375d. below that it was ok, so find something suitable.

put the other 2 into your oven(insluate them) and let the temp stabilize for a good 10min after it has preheated(important). take a look and see where the temp reads, hopefully all 2-3 of them read somewhat similar temperatures. if you see vastly different readings go get another themometer and put them all in there and see which one is the piece of shit, find it and throw it away.

ok so we are at 220 degrees now, so put a small amount of powder on a piece of aluminum foil, and place this in the oven with the thermometers on the insulator. let it sit at this temp for a few minuets as you lowered the temp when you open the oven door. every 5-10 min or so SLOWLY increase the temp 5 degrees or so, while watching the thermometers and the powder, noting the temp and whether the powder has melted yet. when the powder melts look at the temp and see what temp it melted at. yes this is tedious to sit there looking thorugh the oven window with a flashlight for 30min, cause you gotta watch it carefully if you want to be as accurate ass possible. i feel bad for those of you who have a free standing stove, cause youll be sitting on the floor.

theres a few things to keep in mind

an electric oven heats by cycling its coil element on and off, so the heat turns on and off, the temp will rise then fall, within a range, this is typically about 50degrees for an electric oven. this means when you set your oven at 400f it heats to 425 then cools to 375 then heats to 425 etc....

you can see how this can screw us, so watch those thermometers carefully. unfortunately they dont respond very fast, meaning if your temp is rising rapidly your therms might read 400 while its really at 410. thats why we increase the heat very very slowly to try and avoid this. sometimes its onavidable on certain ovens.

the reason why we must insulate the thermometers and the powder from direct heat is because the air temp may be 400 but the therm may get to 450 or more due to the radiant heat from the coils or flame, we want to measure air temp so we must shield everything from radiant heat.

if possible try and get a good digital thermometer, not a 12.99 internet chefs special. such examles are a micrometor which uses a probe type temperature sender, these are usually very accurate and they react to read the true temp within seconds, but they cost much more. these are all over the internet for sale.

if you have certain newer models of stoves, consider yourself lucky. a maytag with the advanced cooking system, a whilpool with the accubake system, or a general electric with the true temp system(they write this visibly on the oven somewhere easily seen). these are superior in that as opposed to a conventional stove which will heat to 425 then 375 then 425 etc.. they will typically maintain the temp within about 5 degrees of where you set them to, so 400 degrees is 398 then 402 then 398, much much better.......

all said and done, our test prop melted at 230 degrees instead of 244-251, what do we do? well, your thermometors were prob off or the air temp rose faster than the termometors could respond. or maybe you powder is unpure. regardless that would be close enough to know you still have test prop with a high level of confidence. this test will never be totally accurate but it gives us all a cheap at home way to feel confident were injecting what we think we are. if it melts WAY off, well time to talk to your source, but be confident your results are accurate before you rag on him.

Disclaimer: The articles and conversions posted are for entertainment and informational purposes only - experiment at you own risk.
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